Wonderful Wonderful Copenhagen Part 4

Day 3

Today was the day we packed up and checked out of our apartment and also the day we woke up to snow. It was only a powder thin covering but it seemed to shift Copenhagen’s charm into overdrive. Lots of people out and about and it didn’t seem to stop those on a bike, however treacherous the roads were.

But if ever there was a city to be enjoyed on a bike, this is it. There are entire parts of the road dedicated to cyclists so it seems a really safe way to get around. In fact Copenhagen is often cited as the world’s most friendly bike city. Apparently, 50% of Copenhageners commute to work and school on a bike each day and like Amsterdam, there are more bikes than people.

So, if you want to live like a local, you can find numerous places to hire a bike and explore the city on two wheels. There are many organised bike tours too and if it all gets too tiring, you are allowed to take them on public transport. Once again, something for next time.

Moving on

We had already had a breakfast of eggs and coffee before we left the apartment but one of the places that was on the very top of my list of places to go to eat before we left was Grød, which basically means porridge in Danish). Really? That was on the top of my list? It was and I’ll tell you why. It’s like porridge paradise where you can choose between different blends of porridge, sweet or savoury and then there’s the toppings! This place ‘redefines’ porridge and just goes to show how delicious, delicate and versatile it can be, certainly not a dish that was once associated with poverty or old people with no teeth (I think I made that last part up).

Now, eggs have a very special place in my heart (ok, stomach) at breakfast time, but lunchtime oats? Now there’s a thing.

Judging by how busy it was, Grød must be one of the most popular breakfast spots in Copenhagen and there are four to choose from. We were back at our favourite place, the Torvehallerne Food Market.

Here’s the problem though. Choosing what you want. I only had one chance to get it right and everything looked so good. My daughter chose oatmeal porridge made with a mixture of milk and water with caramel sauce, apple and chocolate pieces and raspberry whilst I opted for the same porridge mix but with banana, cacao nibs and coconut flakes. Fairly neutral flavours actually but all the ingredients tasted so fresh and light and not stodgy like some porridge can be. I was very sad when the bottom of the bowl appeared under my spoon.

You can also buy Grød’s own oats and their cookbook and try out all of the recipes at home.

Vesterbro

After breakfast/brunch/lunch whatever that meal was, we headed to our hotel for our last night in Copenhagen which was situated in the hip and happening district of Vesterbro. It was too early to check in to our rooms so we left our bags and set off to explore this new area. With no fixed plans on where we would go and what we would see, we did our usual wander around and see where we end up.

Tivoli Gardens

The last time we were in Copenhagen in 2003 we wanted to come to this famous amusement park which is the second oldest in the world. It opened in 1843 and has one of the oldest wooden rollercoasters and standing 80 metres tall, the second tallest carousel in the world.

Part of the Tivoli Gardens ‘secret’ is that there is something for everyone. The scenery, the architecture, historic buildings and beautiful gardens. At night, thousands of coloured lights create a fairy tale atmosphere that is completely unique. At Christmas time especially, it is supposed to be absolutely magical.

But we missed out again as it closes on the 1st January until April.

The world's smallest hotel

Also in Vesterbro we found the world’s smallest hotel which has just one room measuring 8x10 ft which sits neatly on top of Copenhagen’s smallest cafe with just five seats.

Another tourist attraction in this part is the first Carlsberg brewery and if you go you can get an idea of how the world famous beer is made and obviously get to drink it. We are not really touristy types and I don't drink beer, so were perfectly happy throwing snowballs in the park and browsing round the huge selection of shops, restaurants and cafes. This is the place to be, it seems, if you're after something cool and unusual or want to visit an art gallery or a music venue.

What I didn’t expect to see was this…my favourite old car, the Fiat 500. I know they are allowed outside of Italy and we see a fair few of them in Switzerland where we live, but it still made me smile to see one here. Wonder if it had its winter tyres on?!

Another 18,000 steps walked today and it was back to the hotel to relax, drink tea and find somewhere to eat for dinner.

Guldsmeden Hotel

We stayed at the Guldsmeden 66 which is described as an urban bohemian hideaway in the heart of Vesterbro. It holds the Ø label which is regulated by the Danish Ministry of food and Agriculture, and the golden Ø is only given to restaurants with a percentage above 90 in regards to organic produce.

Madclubben

A stones throw away from our hotel was the much talked about and very popular Madklubben restaurant. We wanted a relatively early night as we had to get up for a late morning flight so it was perfect being so close. Madklubben was packed with great design and although it seated over 300 people, it still somehow made it feel quite cosy.

For two years in a row they were named Denmark’s most visited restaurant and their vast array of tasty food on the menu is testament to why. You know things could be interesting when the waiter brings you a brown paper bag of pork scratchings to eat whilst you're deciding what to order.

There is also a cocktail bar separate but attached, if that makes sense, which is perfect before, after or independently of dinner.

What did we eat?

For starters: crab, lemon, dill and smoked cheese to share

For main:

Lobscouse a traditional Danish Veal stew, onions, pickled oyster mushrooms and truffle butter

Cod with fried parsley root, parsley salad and clam sauce

Then it was back to the hotel for coffee and tea on the balcony and then pack up before an early morning start.

I wanted to finish this blog in four parts but there’s one more instalment to come and then it’s time to start my research for the next trip of 2017. I hope you have enjoyed it so far.